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Rooky's NX story

Gestart door Rooky, 14 jun 2020 - 00:30

Vorige topic - Volgende topic

Rooky

I am happy to hear any suggestions or recommendations to get rid of the horrible rust.

Going to put the car up on axle stands so I can get under and check everything.

richardwbb

#16
Any metal part that is brown and has holes does not contribute to structural soundness so have to be flexed out. But wait with that for welding confidence for places MOT will see.

For welding watching youtube should help. A welder chooses the best way flexing parts out to be able to make straight lines. All metal that is not original thickness is not suitable for welding.

One does not put a slightly larger plate over a hole. The plate has to fit nicely. The heat generated by the welder will deform your just made plate. To overcome this you do the following



Flex out the rust preferably in square or something close like trapezium etc. Flex a nicely fitting plate about touching the spot to weld. Don't look at the image for this. It has to be snug. Then start welding a small weld on red, then on green, then on blue. There a two blue dots, it doesn't matter but now you go welding the heat will be spread nicely.

Then the yellow, this are halve moons, you weld in halve moons. For MOT overhere you can skip half welding but it is easier to keep on going with halve moons.

I hope this is clear, I am not an experienced welder but if you don't do it like this is will be pittiful.

Also, you will need to be aware that carpets and plastics are going it to melt, then it will burn (it can pick up fire several inches away). Theoretically your car might catch fire and will show 5 minutes after your last weld. A fire extinguisher is nice to have. This kind of fire can damage your car beyond reasonable repair and the dashboard is the most sensitive place, if your dash melts with your loom you loose the car.

Keep in mind you will have to look at youtube bit since I couldn't find anything on moon welding, heat transfer and why plates have to be snug, I drew it up for you. It is how professionals weld their stuff.

Also keep in mind if you have a 3 dimensional hole you weld it up 2 dimensional so part of the first plate should be welded with the second plate. The deforming of plates will be notably, no need to create a 3 dimensoinal plate, it won't fit half way.

I hope this helps and please surf the web or even better get some experienced person with the car and ask him about moon welding and heat transfer, I am not a professional welder.

One important last thing, the plate you weld in does not have to be new but anything not metal needs to be sanded off. Welders won't weld trough paint. You need clean welds, or it will rust just as hard. To prevent sanding rust and make metal thinner I recommend a rotary thingy shown below,



It will prevent to make the metal thinner and still nicely remove paint or rust. The new or used plate you weld in must be exact the same thickness to prevent heat transfer issues.

One last thing, before you flex out rust, be sure that you are able to weld that hole, I mean that you can put your torch in all angles and hard to get places. Where you start welding your first spots for bonding with the car, clock wise, counter clock wise, all depends on how you put your torch there and if you are left handed or right handed. Experienced welders can weld when they just can see their own torch in their welding shield, or go left or right. But you need to make sure first that how you weld it, you can see the welding, it isn't easy or you are talented for welding.
Achtien jaar Nissan 100nx, 1.6 carb [sloperij], 1.6 injectie [gesloopt], nu een 100nx gti. Met nu ook een k13 Micra 1.2 daily

Rooky

Thank you for the reply Richard.
That is a great amount of information. And the diagrams are perfect.
I have started watching a few YouTube videos.
I need to just having a go now.
I have an old car bonnet that I'm going to cut up and practise welding on first.
I will get some more pictures soon.
Thanks again

Rooky

Finally got the NX up on axle stands.
I can take off the wheels, suspension and brakes and check the underbody.






richardwbb

Are that stock Nissan rims?
Achtien jaar Nissan 100nx, 1.6 carb [sloperij], 1.6 injectie [gesloopt], nu een 100nx gti. Met nu ook een k13 Micra 1.2 daily

Rooky

According to the previous owner they are the original wheels.
The car was imported to Ireland from the UK in 1998 and those were on it then.
They seem good and solid but are in need of rejuvenation.

richardwbb

That are quite valuable rims m8
Achtien jaar Nissan 100nx, 1.6 carb [sloperij], 1.6 injectie [gesloopt], nu een 100nx gti. Met nu ook een k13 Micra 1.2 daily

Rooky

That's great to know. I love the look of them.
The centres were painted gold, but very badly.
They definitely need some work to get them looking there best.

Rooky

Wheels finally off, took a lot of wd40 and brute force.


Rear bumper off. This was quite an ordeal, took about an hour.
Every possible bolt and screw corroded and unusable.
Most snapped off. The bracket that is the full length of the bumper and bolts through into the boot had completely rotted away. I need to find or make a replacement.



The rear licence plate lights bracket also no longer exists. So much rust. Another bracket I need to find or make.



Right hand side inner bracket is salvageable but the left hand one is missing. Pics of the inside of rear bumper.








Lots more to do. I started trying to remove the front bumper but I'm quite stuck at the minute.
Removed the front inner wheel arches.
I'll have to go at the front bumper again, but it's going to be a lot harder than the rear.
Every bolt I can see is completely rusted and will have to be cut/broken off. Getting to them being the awkward bit.

HarriePekel

easiest way to remove the front bumper, unbolt both wings to.
eigenaar 100NX AIRTOP (cabrio)

Rooky

Really!!
Hadn't planned on removing them????

HarriePekel

It might be faster to remove and bolt them on again, the connecting screws between the fenders and the bumper are also often rusted and hard to get out on the car  ;)
eigenaar 100NX AIRTOP (cabrio)

Rooky

Perfect Harrie
Sounds like it's the way to go.
Thanks

Rens

#28
You'd better remove the front wings, also to check places for rust, and remove the dirt.  ;)




You should have removed that rear bumper 2 weeks earlier.  ;)
I could have send the part you need for the license plate lights as well.
The club has 2 on sale: https://forum.nissan100nxclub.nl/onderdelen-verkopen/(clubverkoop)-exterieur-en-verlichting/msg228379/#msg228379
Rusty, but otherwise in proper condition.

Rooky

I know, I'm kicking myself now.
I'll strip the bumper and wings off and see if there are any other bits and pieces I might need.